Going from Amateur to Pro Photographer

Those new to the idea can be taken by surprise and even feel a little uncomfortable at the prospect of running a photography business. Their photography is now a product that needs to be sold. However, no one can run a successful photography studio in the long term if they persist with the idea of being primarily a photographer, while ignoring the necessary business aspects.

professional photographer

photo by JD Hascup

Professional Photography Is Fun, But It’s No Game

Despite the serious nature of the photography business, being a professional photographer can be fun, highly rewarding, and deeply satisfying in the creative sense. Unfortunately, too many new pro photographers treat their business like an easy game, which is the fastest path to a business meltdown and ultimate failure.

But how can an amateur photographer who does take this seriously actually make the leap to becoming a professional photographer?

Start With An Inventory

The first thing to do is to take a complete inventory of everything the photographer already has that can be used for the business:

  • Cameras and lenses (both primary and backup)
  • Lighting equipment (indoor studio and portable lighting)
  • Backdrops, props, and stands
  • Miscellaneous photographic and studio gear
  • Computing equipment, software and hardware
  • Office equipment and necessary supplies (for example, printers and ink)
  • Physical studio space (rented or at home)
professional camera setup

photo by Josh Janssen

Most amateurs probably have many of these things to begin with, but it’s important not to get bogged down by the details. Instead, list the available resources as a starting point. There will undoubtedly be gaps that need to be filled. For example, backup cameras are critical for the wedding photographer; failure on someone’s wedding day is not an option!

With that said, this is no time to start shopping for all the latest and greatest gear! The idea that photographers must own the newest high dollar camera in order to be successful, for example, is a myth. The time to invest in better equipment is later on, when the business is generating sufficient revenue.

When making the jump from amateur to professional photographer there’s something far more important to invest in: business and marketing education.

Invest In Knowledge–Not Just Equipment

For some reason, business education is a difficult thing to persuade many photographers to invest in, but taking the time and effort to learn about running a business separates the wannabes from the truly dedicated professionals.

As soon as the photographer makes the decision to go pro, it’s the time to figure out where his or her personal strengths and weaknesses are with regard to business, accounting, marketing, and sales.

sports photographers

photo by Ronnie Macdonald

Of course, technical skills and a dedication to the art of photography are still important for creating a quality product, but skills and passion won’t matter if the photographer has very little idea of how to run a business.

The early days in starting a business are the time when the photographer is simply unaware of the things he or she needs to know, but doesn’t (in other words, “blind spots”). A better understanding of where photographers are in their personal business development is of critical importance.

Some areas to which most newcomers to the business should give serious thought include the following:

  • Branding
  • The importance of a positive business attitude and mindset
  • Creating an attractive product range and price it accordingly
  • Business communication skills–written and verbal
  • Search engine optimization
  • Persuasive copywriting
  • Marketing know-how
  • Building relationships with other businesses
  • Sales techniques and overall confidence in selling
  • Creating and maintaining positive client relationships
  • Business administration, such as legal and accounting tasks
photographer at work

photo by Ufuk Sha Agun

Some of these may require extensive training, but education is perhaps one of the best investments to be made in any photography business.

Ultimately, the amateur-turned-professional photographer is now the CEO of a new business venture and should therefore approach the acquisition of knowledge and skills required to run the business in just the same way as any other serious business owner.

About The Author:
Nigel Merrick is a professional photographer, blogger and business coach for other working photographers. Nigel’s blog helps professional photographers find peace in their business, love from their clients, and happiness in their personal lives by clarifying their focus on business and marketing.

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How to Take the Perfect Macro Photo (Step-By-Step Guide)

The post How to Take the Perfect Macro Photo (Step-By-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

In this article, I’m going to show you exactly how you can take the perfect macro photo.

I’m talking about macro photos that are unbelievably good – the kind of photo that professionals strive for.

Because it turns out there are a few simple macro secrets. And if you use them regularly, you can practically guarantee some gorgeous macro images.

Are you ready for some step-by-step instructions that will take your macro images to the next level?

Let’s dive right in.

Step 1: Shoot during the right light (clouds or Golden-Hour!)

Macro photography starts with light.

And without good light?

Your photos just won’t work.

But what counts as good light for macro photography?

First of all, the golden hours are amazing for macro photography. If you shoot during the hour or two after sunrise and the hour or two before sunset, you’re guaranteed incredible light.

You do have to be careful about the light’s direction. During the golden hours, the sun is low in the sky. This means that the light hits your subject from an angle. And this angle will affect how your photos turn out.

In general, frontlight is the best type of light for macro photography.

(Frontlight refers to light that comes from over your shoulder, and hits the front of your subject.)

So if you stick to frontlight, you’ll do just fine.

If you struggle to find the best position for frontlight, try pointing your shadow at your subject. That way, you can be sure that your subject is always perfectly lit.

However, the golden hours aren’t the only type of good light for macro photography.

You can also shoot beautiful macro photos when the day is heavily overcast.

Because clouds diffuse the light, making it nice and soft.

With soft light, you don’t have to worry about the direction. Instead, focus on shooting subjects with color. The soft light will make the hues more vivid.

And speaking of subjects:

Step 2: Find a single stand-out subject

All perfect macro photos need a strong subject.

Something that stands out. Something that can act as a focal point for your photo. Something that anchors the shot.

There are dozens of possible macro photography subjects, including:

  • Flowers
  • Insects
  • Rocks
  • Feathers
  • Leaves

But here’s the thing:

The particular category of the subject isn’t important. You can take amazing macro photos of flowers or insects, rocks or feathers.

What’s important is that you choose the right flower, the right insect, the right rock.

Because you need to choose a subject that’s going to stand out from its surroundings. That is, you should aim for a subject that contrasts with the environment (ideally in multiple ways).

For instance, your subject can be sharp, while its surroundings are soft.

Your subject can be dark, while its surroundings are light.

Your subject can be red, while its surroundings are green.

The point is for your subject to stand out. If your subject blends in with the environment, the shot generally won’t work. Because almost every macro photo needs an anchor.

Note that this means your subject shouldn’t overlap chaotically with other, similar objects. For instance, you don’t want a flower that’s surrounding by other distracting flowers.

Bottom line:

Make sure your subject is powerful. That’s the first step to capturing the perfect macro photo.

Step 3: Find a simple background that enhances the subject

You know the importance of a stand-out subject.

But your background is important, too.

If you want to capture a stunning macro photo, you’ve got to make sure that your background is totally aligned with this goal.

What makes for the perfect macro background?

First, the perfect background is simple. It doesn’t have much going on. It doesn’t distract.

Second, the perfect background enhances the photo as a whole. That is, it adds a splash of color, or creates a pure white look for the subject to rest on.

In general, you can make your macro backgrounds simple by creating a deep blur. You do this two ways:

  1. Use a wide aperture (in the f/2.8 to f/5.6 range).
  2. Have a large subject-to-background distance. For this, make sure that your background is off in the distance.

To enhance the photo with your background is harder. I like to make backgrounds by using the sun-shade technique – where you make sure that your subject is in the shade, and your background is in golden sun.

That’s how I was able to capture backgrounds like this one:

If you can’t use the sun-shade technique, that’s okay. Try to find a background that includes a bit of color – such as a distant autumn tree.

Note that you can often find better backgrounds by simply walking around your subject and observing it from multiple angles. Try getting down low, shooting from up high, or getting on a level with your subject.

Step 4: Pick the perfect settings for a sharp, well-exposed macro photo

Once you’ve chosen a subject and a background, it’s time to choose your macro settings.

I’ll start by sharing my common settings, and then explain why I choose them and what I suggest you work with.

When I shoot macro photography, I use Manual mode, because I like tweaking both my shutter speed and aperture to try out different looks. However, it can also make sense to work in Aperture Priority mode if you’re not interested in playing with different shutter speeds for creative results.

I don’t recommend Shutter Priority mode, because this relinquishes control over your aperture – and aperture is something that you should absolutely choose yourself.

Speaking of aperture: I consistently use apertures between f/2.8 and f/5.6. This gives me the perfect blurry background – which, as I mentioned above, helps create a stand-out subject.

However, macro photographers sometimes prefer their subject to be sharp throughout. In this case, you’ll need an aperture in the area of f/16 and beyond, and you’ll need a tripod. In fact, if your subject is very three-dimensional, you’ll need to focus stack (a technique that’s beyond the scope of this article).

I tend to work handheld (because I like the flexibility). This means that I rarely let my shutter speed drop below 1/120th of a second. But if you use a tripod, you’re free to let your shutter speed drop far below this mark (if there’s absolutely no wind, that is!).

In general, I advocate using the lowest ISO you can get away with. You want to minimize noise as much as possible. So try to keep this down.

Finally, make sure that you switch from autofocus to manual focus, especially if you’re working at high magnifications. You simply can’t focus well with autofocus at macro magnifications, no matter how good your lens. So manual focus is key to getting the perfect shot.

And that’s it! Take your shot – and admire it! Because if you’ve followed the instructions above, it’s going to look really, really stunning.

How to take the perfect macro photo: next steps

You know how to take the perfect macro photo.

You know how to find the perfect light, the perfect subject, and the perfect background.

You even know the perfect macro photography settings.

So go out and take some perfect macro photos of your own!

Which step in capturing a perfect macro photo do you struggle with the most? Leave a comment right now letting me know – and I’ll see what I can do to help!



The post How to Take the Perfect Macro Photo (Step-By-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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Walmart’s ‘The Big Save’ sale ends today: final deals on TVs, laptops, and more

While Amazon Prime Day ended on Tuesday, Walmart's 'The Big Save' sale has been extended to today with price cuts that rival the tech giant. You can find massive savings throughout the site on best-selling items.

The best part about Walmart's summer sale is that unlike Prime Day, Walmart's deals are available to everyone – you don't need to be a member or have a subscription. You also get free shipping on all orders over $ 35. The deals aren't bad either, with massive savings on everything from 4K TVs and laptops to kitchen appliances and vacuums. You'll also find discounts on Google smart home devices, which aren't available on Amazon.

See our roundup below of the best Walmart deals that are still available. Keep in mind these offers end today, and might be the last time snag stellar deal before Black Friday.

Walmart has a lot of stuff on offer right now, with a wide range of devices and categories that are at an all-time low price.

We've scoured the site, and listed the best deals that are worth your time. Here are out top choices:

Shop more Walmart TV deals with our roundup of the best 4K TV deals that are happening now.

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Save 15% on the New Think Tank Photo BackLight Elite 45L Camera Backpack

Through July 31st, Think Tank Photo has the BackLight Elite 45L Camera Backpack on sale for 15% off with free shipping and a free gift for using our link to make your purchase.

  • Storm-resistant construction with YKK AquaGuard zippers and
  • terproof/tearproof Sailcloth
  • Superior Fit: Robust lumbar padding, hip-hugging waist belt, quick-dry back
  • nel, and foam ridges for increased ventilation
  • Back and top panel access to all of your camera gear, allowing you to work out
  • your bag without getting your harness dirty or wet
  • Aluminum internal frame supports the load and keeps it in place
  • Dedicated compartments fit up to a 17” laptop and a 10” tablet
  • Meets most international and U.S. carry-on requirements*
  • Advanced Airflow: Dual-density, honeycomb mesh shoulder straps
  • Includes tripod/monopod mounting system on front or side
  • Trekking capacity! Front pockets totaling 17L carry personal gear for a day’s outing:
  • tra layers, a jacket, food, etc.
  • Hydration reservoir ready (reservoir not included)
  • 2 large water bottle pockets with cinch cord fit 32 oz. water bottles
  • Snowboard or ski carry with tuck-away, protected edge lash straps
  • Top-lid converts into a belt pack with the removable waist belt
  • Waterproof, heavy-duty Tarpaulin base
  • Seam-sealed, brown colored rain cover blends in with the environment
  • Removable camera compartment with emergency shoulder straps to avoid gate check
  • Removable waist belt for ease when traveling
  • Expandable capacity on all five sides with daisy chain, ice axe loops and additional
  • sh points
  • Compatible with the MindShift Tripod Suspension Kit, Filter Nest/Hive & Switch Case

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Australia vs New Zealand live stream: how to watch the Netball World Cup final 2019 from anywhere

Having caused the hosts heartache by beating England 47-45 in the semi-finals, New Zealand must now face holders Australia in the 2019 Netball World Cup final for a sixth consecutive tournament. It should be a fiercely fought final and you can watch every minute with an Australia vs New Zealand live stream.

The quick-fire format of this year's tournament means there's little time for either finalist to bask in the glory of their semi-final wins yesterday. Silver Ferns coach Noeline Taurua will have been thrilled by her side's comeback from 24-21 at half-time and the resilience they showed at the end to see out the match against the much fancied hosts.

Australia put in perhaps the least convincing performance of the two teams in their semi, squandering an eight-goal half-time lead as South Africa worked their way back to within one goal with four minutes remaining. The Diamonds nevertheless just about held on to reach today's gold-medal match to stay on course for a 12th crown from 15 editions of the tournament since 1963.

Despite yesterday's fright, Australia may have the psychological edge today after narrowly beating New Zealand 50-49 in their Preliminary Stage 2 clash to top Group F earlier in the tournament.

If you want to know where you'll be able to watch today's match, we'll tell you exactly where you can catch the game online with our 2019 Netball World Cup Final Australia vs New Zealand live stream guide.

How to watch the 2019 Netball World Cup final from outside your country

Below we have a full rundown of your watching options in the UK (where the game will be shown live on the BBC), Australia (where the final will be shown free-to-air) and New Zealand (where Sky has live broadcast rights).

The problems start when you try to watch your domestic coverage online while out of the country. Give it a go…you'll quickly find your stream is geo-blocked. That's super annoying, but not unavoidable. We've found that using a Virtual Private Network – or VPN – is a handy solution. You select a server in your home country and then watch as if you were sat back at home on your couch.

How to live stream the Aussia Diamonds in Australia for FREE

How to live stream the Silver Ferns in New Zealand

Live stream Australia vs New Zealand Netball World Cup final in the UK

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How to Use the HDR Panorama Photo Merge in Lightroom Classic CC

The post How to Use the HDR Panorama Photo Merge in Lightroom Classic CC appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Not long ago I wrote about Four of the Latest Updates to Lightroom Classic CC. In it, we talked about some of the fresh features Adobe has recently added to Lightroom. One of those great new additions was the single-step HDR Panorama Photo Merge. That’s a mouthful of a name, but it’s an incredibly useful tool that allows us to combine multiple bracketed exposures into a seamless high dynamic range panoramic image in, as the name suggests, essentially a single step. In this article, we’re going to delve a little deeper into the new single-step step HDR Panorama Photo Merge (geez) feature and show you exactly how to capture and combine your images to make a beautifully executed panorama.

What is an HDR Panorama?

High dynamic range (HDR) photographs and panoramas are nothing new to the world of photography. In fact, neither are HDR panoramas.

HDR photos are simply images combining multiple exposures to form a final photo that exhibits tonal and/or focus ranges far beyond a single exposure. Along those same lines, panoramic photos are images stitched together that carry a visual perspective beyond what is obtainable from a single exposure (with a few exceptions).

As you may have guessed, an HDR panorama combines multiple photographs to produce a wide perspective composite image featuring high dynamic range.

Previous methods for merging multiple images to produce HDR panoramic photos were generally tedious and required venturing over into Photoshop. Luckily, with the new HDR Panoramic feature introduced in v8.0 of Lightroom Classic CC, you can now efficiently combine your images with just a few clicks of the mouse. Let me show you how I made the above HDR pano combining twelve separate bracketed photos right inside of Lightroom.

Obtaining your images for merging

The first and arguably most crucial part of creating your HDR panorama begins inside your camera.

Lightroom places some stringent criteria on the images you can combine using it’s single-step HDR Panorama function. ALL of these rules must be met by each one of your images prior to merging.

Here are the “rules” for images you plan to merge into an HDR pano directly from Adobe:

  • All the images in your selection must contain the exposure metadata – Exposure time, f-number, and ISO.
  • Each set of bracketed exposures in your selection must have the same number of images. For example, if you chose to bracket with three images, then all the sets in the selection must also use three images.
  • Every set of bracketed exposures in your selection must have the same exposure offsets. For example, if your first set has exposure offsets of (0, -1, +1), then all other sets in the selection must follow the exposure offset pattern. The image sets can have different exposure values; only the exposure offsets pattern must be consistent across all the sets.
  • Each set of bracketed exposures must be captured contiguously. For example, if you’ve considered a bracket size of three while capturing the images, then the first three images in the sequence become part of a bracket set. The next three images in the sequence become part of another bracket set, and so on.
  • Within a set of bracketed exposures, the images must not have the same exposure value.

While you can shoot your images in either a vertical or horizontal orientation, it is a good idea to use vertically orientated photos in you plan on displaying them digitally. This avoids extremely long, yet narrow images. Of course, this is entirely up to you.

Combining the images

Now that you’ve made it through the rather exacting process of actually obtaining your photos for merging, the rest of the operation is refreshingly easy to complete.


First things first. In the Library Module of Lightroom Classic CC select the images you want to use for the HDR pano. An easy trick to select all of your images at once is to select the photo at the beginning of the series and then hold down the shift key while clicking the last photo in the series. This automatically selects all your bracketed exposures at once. It also saves you quite a few mouse clicks if you are using a high number of photos.

Once you’ve got all of your photos selected, right-click on any of those images and choose Photo Merge, and then HDR Panorama.

It’s here where you learn for sure whether all of your images meet the requirements for merging. If not, you will receive the soul-crushing message ‘Unable To Detect HDR Exposure Bracket Size. Merge To Non-HDR Panorama Instead?’ That means Lightroom will merge the photos into a normal non-HDR pano if possible.

However, if you’ve done your duty, and you obtained all of your images correctly, your photo will appear as a preliminary smart preview. From here, it’s just a matter of controlling how you want Lightroom to handle the final merging of your images. You’ll have quite a few options that will affect the ultimate product.

Projection modes

Think of projections as the shape of the canvas on which Lightroom paints your finished HDR panorama. There are three different projection modes from which to choose based on the nature of the panorama you are creating:

  • Spherical: This aligns and transforms the images as if they were mapped to the inside of a sphere. This projection mode is great for ultra-wide or multi-row panoramas.

  • Cylindrical: This projects the panorama/HDR panorama as if it were mapped to the inside of a cylinder. This projection mode works well for wide panoramas, but it also keeps vertical lines straight.

  • Perspective: This projects the panorama/HDR panorama as if it were mapped to a flat surface. Since this mode keeps straight lines straight, it is great for architectural photography. Extremely wide panoramas may not work well with this mode due to excessive distortion near the edges of the resulting panorama.

Boundary Warp

The amount of Boundary Warp is a way to stretch your merged HDR pano so that it more or less fills the frame of the selected projection mode. With Boundary Warp, you have a slider that ranges from 0-100 that allows you to preserve any content of the photo that you may lose after cropping.

Experiment with different Boundary Warp settings until you reach a happy medium between distortion and content preservation.

Auto settings/crop

These settings work extremely well to save you some editing time at least on the front end. The auto-crop and auto-settings functions allow Lightroom to trim and process your finished HDR panorama automatically. While you, of course, can crop and process your image manually after merging, I’ve found the auto settings function gives consistently outstanding results.


Consider stacking as an afterthought of your post-panorama post-processing. It’s a way for you to keep all of your ducks in a row, so to speak, and is especially useful if you’ve used many photos to construct your HDR panorama. Choosing the stacking option literally stacks all of the images used for your HDR panorama merge into a group with the merged image placed on top. This aids in keeping your filmstrip tidy and saves physical space in the Library Module.

Once you have made all of your selections for the HDR pano merge, it’s time to click the ‘Merge’ button. This begins the process of combining the images into a single DNG file.

After the merge is complete, you will have an image which you are free to finish processing just as you could with any other digital RAW file. This includes adjusting the auto-cropping and, of course, the auto settings. This achieves the final image that we saw from earlier.

Final considerations

Remember that any HDR image is already by its very definition a composite photo. As such, it is a combination of many different exposures which, if pushed too far, can result in an incredibly fake-looking final product. Always keep your HDR images within the realm of passable reality unless you are intentionally going for a hyper-realistic appeal. Along those same lines, make sure the photos meet all the criteria for HDR panorama merging listed above.

Furthermore, attempt to previsualize the final merged photo in your mind and shoot your images according to the tonal range and perspective you wish to achieve. When in doubt, it’s always better to have too many images to work with than not enough.

Have some HDR Panorama photos you’ve created inside of Lightroom Classic CC? We’d love to see them! Feel free to share them in the comments.



The post How to Use the HDR Panorama Photo Merge in Lightroom Classic CC appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

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Pacquiao vs Thurman live stream: how to watch tonight’s boxing online from anywhere

Welcome to fight night! It's time for Saturday night boxing from Sin City and the legendary Manny Pacquiao is set to return to the ring for a showdown with undefeated Super WBA Welterweight Champion Keith Thurman. It's one of the most eagerly anticipated fights of the year so far, and you can watch it all with our guide to getting a Pacquiao vs Thurman live stream.

Future Hall-of Fame inductee Pacquiao may now be the wrong side of 40, but recent wins confirm him as a relevant and explosive boxer at this weight. Meanwhile the speed and power of Thurman makes him arguably the most naturally talented boxer in a hugely competitive division.

Pacquiao (61-7-2, 39 KOs) comes into tonight's fight off the back of an impressive points decision victory over Adrien Broner back in January which saw Pac Man defend his WBA (regular) welterweight title. 

Thurman's (29-0, 22 KOs) last appearance in the ring also came in January with a majority decision over Josesito Lopez. It was an understandably rusty display for Thurman, as it marked the end of a near-two-year layoff for the American thanks to injuries. 

Pacquiao is no stranger to giving up height and reach, and his opponent tonight will again hold the advantage in both attributes, but it's Thurman's speed and power that will be worrying the veteran who is ten years his senior.

To catch everything online, you've come to the right place. Read on to find out how to stream Pacquiao vs Thurman live anywhere in the world.

  • Motor racing fan? Find out how to get an F1 live stream no matter where you are

Watch a Pacquiao vs Thurman live stream from outside your country

Keep scrolling to see how to watch the boxing in the US, Canada, UK and Australia . But if you're a resident of one of those countries – or any other, for that matter – who is worried about being away from your country and missing your domestic coverage of the Pacquiao vs Thurman fight, then fear not, there's a way to watch that doesn't involve trying to find a grainy, illegal feed on Reddit or such like.

How to watch Pacquiao vs Thurman in the US

Watch Pacquiao vs Thurman in Canada with a live stream

How to live stream Pacquiao vs Thurman in the UK

Live stream Manny Pacquiao vs Keith Thurman in Australia

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How to Shoot Animal Portraits [video]

The post How to Shoot Animal Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


In this video from the crew over at Cooph, Vincent Lagrange, shows you how to shoot animal portraits that have style and tell the story behind the animal.

These are the key things Lagrange points out in the video:


Animals don’t need makeup or a stylist – they have their own unique look to photograph from the get-go.



  • Build a good relationship with the animal.
  • Create a soft light setting. Avoid flash so that the animal is as relaxed as possible.
  • Create a quiet atmosphere
  • Communicate with sound.
  • Only use food when the shoot is becoming difficult.



  • Don’t start directly photographing the animal. Spend some time with it first.
  • If the animal doesn’t want to be photographed, then don’t. Let it rest and then try again. It is not an object.
  • Have patience


  • For the larger portraits, Vincent uses the Leica S medium format camera.
  • When he is on the road, he uses the Leica M.
  • He always uses fixed lenses – never zooms.
  • He also never uses continuous shooting mode. He invests time in composing and doing single shots and keeping it quiet.

You may also find the following helpful:


The post How to Shoot Animal Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

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The Story from Square Top Mountain, Guanella Pass, CO

It started out innocently. After verifying firsthand that Mount Evans was closed due to snow and ice, despite it being summer, we decided to explore Guenella Pass. Traveling the entire previous day gave Brittany a strong desire to go for a hike and she didn’t have to expend much energy convincing me to take that option.
The plan was to explore the nearby alpine tundra from trails leading from a parking area near the top of the pass. We grabbed a backpack, some water, snacks, and rain shells and set off on what we thought would be a mini-adventure. Carrying the Canon EOS 5Ds R with a Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens mounted (primarily for wildlife) and a Nikon Z 7 with a Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S Lens mounted (primarily for landscape) seemed to be an ideal set of gear for the planned short hike.
While hiking, Brittany continuously wanted to see what was over the next ridge. In this location, deception reigned and the answer to the what is over the next ridge question is always another ridge. Still, we kept asking the question until having climbed mostly rock and snowfield over 2,400′ (730m) up in roughly 3.5 mi (5.6km). Unintentionally, we found ourselves on top of a very high mountain.
The view at the top of the 13,800′ Table Top Mountain was spectacular. What Brit was feeling from the altitude … was not nearly as pleasant.
Unfortunately, we needed to promptly go back down and couldn’t spend much time on top. Fortunately, Brit found the mental fortitude to get some great photos despite the altitude sickness but she didn’t feel good until after a nap back in town.
While I was not as strongly affected by the high elevation, I definitely should have left the 100-400 in the SUV as it gained a lot of weight on this hike.
See the distant thunderhead cloud looming over Brittany’s head in the image? That was another reason to go down quickly. That storm brought us near white-out snow conditions for a short period of time during our descent, adding to the day’s story.
While photography is great for storytelling, going on photo adventures is a great option for creating stories.
A larger version of this image is available on Flickr.

Camera and Lens Settings
24mm  f/11.0  1/200s
ISO 100
8256 x 5504px

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Whyte vs Rivas live stream: how to watch tonight’s boxing online from anywhere

There's loads on the line tonight at the O2 in London as Britain's Dillian Whyte takes on Colombia's Oscar Rivas. Both the WBC interim heavyweight title and a future crack at champion Deontay Wilder as mandatory challenger are the spoils for the victor in what looks set to be an explosive showdown. You can live stream the Whyte vs Rivas fight and its undercard using our guide below.

Whyte has had a frustrating wait to get his dream title fight, having been ranked as the top contender by the WBC since November 2017. A win tonight will earn him the big money bout he's been craving for so long. Whyte comes into tonight's tear up with nine straight wins under his belt – the most recent coming against his fellow Brit rival Dereck Chisora in December.

He certainly hasn't taken the easy option with his opponent tonight – Oscar 'Kaboom' Rivas, a 32-year-old Colombian who usually fights out of Canada, has an impeccable 26-0 (18 KOs) professional record. His past conquests include Andy Ruiz Jr, the recent shock victor over Anthony Joshua.

There's a pretty strong undercard to get things nicely warmed up as well, with veteran Brit heavyweight Dereck Chisora taking on the equally unpredictable Artur Szpilka from Poland.

Read on to find out how to live stream Whyte vs Rivas boxing from absolutely anywhere.

Live stream Whyte vs Rivas from outside your country 

In the US, Canada (where DAZN has you sorted) or UK tonight? Then scroll just a little further down this page and we'll tell you who's broadcasting the boxing from where you are.

But if you're abroad this weekend then you'll need another way to watch and avoid possible geo-blocking. That's where using a VPN comes in.

How to watch the Whyte vs Rivas fight: UK stream

How to watch Whyte vs Rivas: US live stream

How to watch a Whyte vs Rivas live stream in Canada for FREE

How to watch the fight in Australia

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Interesting Photo of the Day: Chilly Winter Morning Sunrise

Landscape photographers never get enough of sunrises and sunsets. And neither do we. It’s like nature has a different color palette, made just for these magic hours. Fine art landscape photographer Arpan Das captured this enchanting image of sunrise over Vermillion Lake that supports this notion:

sunrise over Vermillion lake

“Sunrise Over Vermillion Lake” by Arpan Das (Via Reddit. Click image to see full size.)

Although the appearance of the clouds might suggest that the image is a long exposure, it’s not; Das exposed it for a mere 1/2 second.

The way Das has composed this shot is really thoughtful. The snowy foreground, the reflection of the mountain and the sunset in the middle, and the colorful sky in the background all gel together so well to create this interesting image. And that signature warm tone of the early morning light adds drama.

Go to full article: Interesting Photo of the Day: Chilly Winter Morning Sunrise

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Weekly Photography Challenge – Opposites

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Opposites appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s photography challenge topic is OPPOSITES!

Go out and capture absolutely anything from still life to pets, street photography, still life, landscape, and portraits. They can be color, black and white, moody or bright. Just so long as they have opposites! Opposing colors, opposing objects, light and shade, opposing shapes – You get the picture! Have fun, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with!


Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for Shooting OPPOSITES

How to Make Your Photos Stand Out Using Color Contrast

How to Use Shadow and Contrast to Create Dramatic Images

Five Tips for Creative Pet Photography

The dPS Top Street Photography Tips of 2018

The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2018


Weekly Photography Challenge – OPPOSITES

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSopposites to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Opposites appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

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